Collecting and Acclimatising Your Puppy

Collecting Your Puppy

Try to collect your new puppy in the morning so that he arrives at his new home in daylight. This 4051will give him the opportunity to explore his new environment before dark.

  • Ask the breeder to avoid feeding him prior to collection otherwise there will be an increased risk of travel sickness.
  • Take a towel, kitchen roll, a blanket and a puppy crate and some newspaper. If he is sick or has a toilet accident on the journey these will be very useful for the clean-up job. Of course your puppy might well be a good traveller but the blanket will be a useful way to ensure he was kept warm on the journey.

Arriving Home

On arrival at his new home, let your new puppy out in the puppy-proofed garden as he will almost certainly need to toilet after the journey.

  • Introduce him straight away to the puppy-proofed room where hall-about-animalse will be living until he has settled in and is toilet trained. 
  • Offer him a small drink and a small bowl of food but if he isn’t interested in eating, remove the food and try again later.
  • Let your puppy rest and sleep in a quiet place as he will likely be tired after all the travelling.

Early Days

For the first few days allow your puppy to find his own way around his new environment so he gets used to it. You can introduce to the other areas of your home he will be allowed into later, when he is properly house-trained.

  • Don’t overwhelm him with too much fuss and attention including that of friends and neighbours, until he is settled in and try to keep a balance between his sleeping, playing and relaxing. Too little or too much of these will be damaging to his well-being.

Puppy-Safe Living Space

  • Choose a puppy safe area in, for example, the kitchen; ensure that any chewable objects, particularly dangerous ones, are safely out of reach.
  • Wherever you choose as your puppy-safe area ensure it is an easily cleaned area of the house where he will feel secure and there is easy access to the garden when needed; particularly useful during toilet training.

A Den Of His Own


  • Ideally choose a soft, puppy-safe crate initially, switching to a metal mesh crate that won’t easily be chewed, if the need arises. In this case cover it with a blanket, other than the entrance, to encourage him to settle in it and to minimise any distractions.
  • The door can be closed at night once he is used to it. It will also be a great toilet training aid and useful for safe car travel.

Night-Time With Your New Puppy


  • At night give him a cloth or soft toy from his breeder with the scent of his littermates for comfort. Try leaving on a soft light so he can still see his surroundings, and keep the radio on at a low level to provide company for him through the night so he feels safer.
  • It is very likely he will be missing his mother and littermates and will not be used to his new environment, so expect some whimpering and howling; this is common and normal. However do not go down to him, difficult though this will undoubtedly be, as you do not want to establish a pattern of dependency; this can happen all too quickly and will then become problematic in the long term.

Formal Breed Paperwork


KUK KENNEL CLUB PEDIGREE AND REGISTRATION PAPERS: Do not make a commitment to buy or hand over any money until you have seen them, and have receipts showing the papers for the puppy you are buying. Do not assume that the breeder will automatically forward papers that you have never seen, to you later.

NB: Kennel Club registration/pedigree does not guarantee a perfect puppy. It is up to you to carry out the appropriate checks

HEREDITARY SCREENING CERTIFICATES FOR PARENTS: Ideally PennHIP or Orthopaedic Foundation for Animals certification – expert and unbiased inspectors who know exactly what to look for.

FULL MEDICAL HISTORY: Also including worming and flea treatment and also micro-chipping.



FIRST SIX WEEKS FREE PUPPY INSURANCE: A good breeder will have signed up to this scheme.

PAYMENT RECEIPT: Indicates transaction date, payment method, and the specific details of the dog purchased. It is advisable if possible to have the “exchange of funds and goods” witnessed by a third party.

BILL AND TERMS OF SALE/FORMAL CONTRACT: Much more detailed than the simple receipt for your cash, and should be considered as a formal, legal document best drawn up by a solicitor. It should be signed by both parties. Examples of contents could include any breeding and export restrictions that can be put in place by breeder with Kennel Club. A written agreement that purchase of the puppy is subject to a satisfactory examination by your veterinary surgeon within 48 hours of purchasing the puppy.

AKC Registration Papers

Russian German Shepherd Dogs 3

Russian German Shepherd Dogs

One-Man Guard Dogs Who Will Defend You To The Bitter End!


russian shepherd com_thumb[6]



Combining the temperament of the German Shepherd Dog and Laika dog breed types, the Russian GSDs form an intensely close, loyal and devoted bond with their owners, rendering them nearly impossible to re-home. They are TOTALLY SINGLE-PERSON DOGS, even if they have been brought up in a family home, attaching to one person only TO THE EXCLUSION OF ALL OTHERS, and making ABSOLUTELY NO EXCEPTIONS whatsoever for ANY other family member. It is not at all unusual for it to COMPLETELY IGNORE any commands given by anyone who is not its alpha owner, creating difficulties in a family situation.

If they do show any sign of friendliness towards new people in the lives of their alpha owner eg marriage partner, it can take an exceptionally long time and it is NOT IN ANY WAY GUARANTEED, no matter how many years they have shared living with that person that this will happen.


This Russian GSD DOES NOT EASILY BECOME ATTACHED TO CHILDREN – unless the child is its alpha owner, and is OFTEN VERY INTOLERANT of them. Unlike most dogs if it does play with children it will be just as rough as it would be with adults. It will also WASTE NO TIME ABOUT SNAPPING AT THEM IF IT FEELS THEY ARE PUSHING ITS LIMITS TOO FAR such as if they play too roughly for the Russian GSD’s liking – a point of particular and serious concern to parents.



As with the German Shepherd Dog the East-European Shepherd is bred to have pretty much ENDLESS SUPPLIES OF ENERGY and it can happily work for many hours without any need for a break. WITHOUT WORK eg herding, competitive obedience, or agility it will quickly become deeply unhappy and develop behaviour problems. Ideally it will be given SEVERAL HOURS DAILY of mentally stimulating pursuits and dynamic physical exercise. These dogs are TOTALLY UNSUITABLE for apartment life and need to be in a home which can offer VERY substantial, expansive gardens.


Black (Traditional colouring)East European Shepherd DogThe East-European Shepherd has a broader gene pool than the majority of other purebred dogs, and with its status as almost exclusively a working dog when compared to other modern pure-bred dogs, is typically considered to be very healthy.

Whilst it DOES experience genetically inherited health issues, just like any other dog they tend to be FEWER AND FARTHER BETWEEN its equals of other breeds.


Bred to withstand the extreme climates of Russia and surrounding areas the Russian German Shepherd Dog can live just as happily outside as inside. Indeed OUTSIDE may prove preferable for more house-proud owners! IT SHEDS HAIR ALL THE YEAR ROUND, very effectively smothering carpets, furnishings and clothing ON A FULL-TIME, ON-GOING BASIS. However when the seasonal shedding takes place and the undercoat is replaced, SHEDDING IS TAKEN TO AN UNPRECEDENTED LEVEL of intensity! A very powerful vacuum cleaner is a must with these dogs!!


Military Working DogsBite first, ask questions later dogs, Russian GSD s are well known for their practically silent operating status; it is very rare that they bark; and for their EXTREMELY ALERT AND HIGHLY PROTECTIVE instincts.  However, these dogs make excellent guard dogs that will unhesitatingly DEFEND THEIR TERRITORY TO THE DEATH. 

Weighing in at around 100 lbs (70-130 lbs for both sexes) the Russian GSD is a formidable and extraordinarily powerful dog; (males stand at 26-30 inches, females- 24-28 inches) and is a dog intensely and ferociously determined to protect its owner from harm AT ALL COSTS. The prospects of survival for a would-be attacker are NOT good!!

The Russian German Shepherd is also known as: East-European Shepherd, Byelorussian Shepherd, Belarusian Shepherd, Eastern European Shepherd, Byelorussian Owtcharka, Belarusian Owtcharka, East-European Owtcharka, Eastern European Owtcharka, Owczarek Wschodnioeuropejski, Vostochnoevropejskaya Ovcharka, and the VEO.


Russian German Shepherd Dogs 2

Brains, beauty and Totally Hard-Core!

Russian German Shepherd Dog  – One of the most intelligent dogs in the world!

Russianshepherd com

The Russian German Shepherd is one of the most intelligent dogs in the world and probably the most intelligent of the Russian guard dogs (Caucasian dog, Central Asian dog, Russian Sheepdog, Russian Terrier, and Moscow dog), there is pretty much nothing that can be learned by any other breed that cannot be learned by an East-European Shepherd Dog.

Tougher than even the hardest-core German Shepherd Dog or the Belgian Malinois, the East European Shepherd Dog, bred almost exclusively as a working dog for the Soviet military and the KGB has very successfully performed, when asked to, tasks of extreme complexity.  They are also great hunting dogs and are more than capable of working as draught dogs. THEY ARE NOT HOWEVER, GREAT FAMILY PETS.


The East-European Shepherd is regarded as being a highly trainable breed, though it will DEFINITELY NOT BE, FOR NOVICE OWNERS.  It is a very dominant breed, and it will ABSOLUTELY NOT OBEY ANY COMMANDS by someone it considers lower than itself in the packing order. Therefore owners MUST play the Alpha role at ALL times giving NO leeway and showing NO signs of weakness. (This does NOT mean being a bully!!!!)


The East-European Shepherd tends to be intensely suspicious of strangers and it will always remain very stand-offish and distrustful in their presence.  Whilst it will USUALLY not be openly aggressive with them, PROVIDED THE PROPER TRAINING AND APPROPRIATE SOCIALISATION IS IN PLACE, it should be understood that without it the Russian GSD can develop very acute and CRITICALLY DANGEROUS AGGRESSION ISSUES towards humans.

OTHER DOGS:Possessiveness-based aggression

On the other hand most East European Shepherds will get along perfectly well with other dogs but again, THEY MUST HAVE UNDERGONE APPROPRIATE TRAINING AND SOCIALISATION first – although bred to work alongside other dogs it is NOT beyond the realms of possibility that they will develop potentially very serious, aggression issues, towards other dogs. ALL FORMS OF K9 AGGRESSION ARE PREVALENT IN THIS BREED but most commonly seen are; Same-sex, dominance, territorial, and possessiveness-based aggression.

east-european-shepherd-2NON-K9 ANIMAL AGGRESSION:

The strength of their prey drive varies considerably between different EES’s and although some will attempt to attack virtually anything that moves, others will be perfectly amicable with other animals, for example, the family cat. But ultimately PROPER TRAINING AND SOCIALISATION IS VITAL to success.


The Russian German Shepherd Dog

The East-European Shepherd (Russian German Shepherd Dog)

Russian shepherds  - East-European Shepherds

The East European Shepherd (Russian German Shepherd Dog) bears a close resemblance to the German Shepherd Dog although it is actually a distinctly different breed in its own right, and is the result of a Soviet Military and KGB breeding programme following WW2 and achieving its success in the late 1940’s.

Many German Shepherd Dog’s were captured during WW1 after the Russian military noticed the impressive working abilities of the Germans military dogs in general and in particular the German Shepherd Dog. Unfortunately they soon discovered that German Shepherd Dog’s were not well adapted to the harsh climatic conditions of the icy cold Russian winters and the majority did not survive. Those that did were unable to function effectively in such an environment.

To counteract this problem the East European Shepherd was, bred to be larger and heavier, and more powerful and muEE Shepherd alldogbreed tkscular. It also sported a typically black, somewhat denser double coat of medium length, and as required by the Russians, a stronger bite and a very strong protection drive.

The development of the East-European Shepherd or Russian German shepherd started in the Byelorussian region.

During WW1 local Belarusians took a liking to the Germans military dogs as thousands of them travelled through their then, and for most of the war, occupied country which we know today as Belarus. By various ways and means, they took possession of a number of the enduringly popular German Shepherd Dog. In order to avoid unsavoury connections to the, obviously, highly unpopular Germans these dogs were initially known as Byelorussian Owtcharka, or Belarusian Shepherd. For this same reason in the UK the German Shepherd Dog became known as the Alsatian although their official title is still German Shepherd Dog.

German Shepherd DogGerman Shepherd Dog 2

Moving forward in time to WW2 the Russians successfully captured as war trophies, thousands more German Shepherd Dogs from the German military.

A breeding programme led by the Soviet Military and the KGB involving the systematic crossing of GSDs with various Russian dogs, in particular the Laika led to the evolution of a new Russian dog breed, the East-European Shepherd, or the Vostochnoevropejskaya Ovcharka in the late 1940’s; This new Soviet military dog became their main military working breed and also that of the KGB.


The East European Shepherd is today classed as a rare breed owing to the fall of the Soviet Union which saw its popularity wane dramatically. However it is still used by the Russian, Ukrainian, and Belarusian Armed Forces and also by a reasonable number of the republics of Central Asia.

East-European_Shepherd_РУССКАЯ ПСОВАЯ БОРЗАЯ (русский вокодав)The Cynologic Council of the Soviet Union, a division of the Soviet Ministry of Agriculture were the first organisation to produce a formal breed standard for the East European Shepherd and to record pedigrees for it, in 1964. At the present time the Russian Kennel Club is the only organisation granting full recognition to the breed. The Dog Registry of America and the Continental Kennel Club are amongst a number of US rare breed organisations that recognise its breed status.East-European Shepherd easypetmed com


Questions To Ask The Dog Breeder

What to Ask the Breeder


  1. Do you have the parents on site? May I see them? (Father may not be available if owned by someone else.)
  2. What are the good and bad points of the parents, and what titles do they have?
  3. Where were these puppies raised?
  4. How have you socialized them?
  5. What feeding regime do they have?
  6. What treatments have they had to date? Have they had their 1st health check, worming, and flea-treatment, and first of 2-stage inoculations and been micro-chipped?
  7. Are you willing to supply and sign a written agreement that purchase is subject to a satisfactory examination by your veterinary surgeon within 48 hours of purchase?
  8. What are the congenital defects in this breed?
  9. Have your dogs been “screened” and “tested” for hereditary health problems and are they “certified.”(e.g. for GSD’s hip scoring, heart rated parents for Boxers.)
  10. Are their pedigree and registration papers available?
  11. Are the puppies insured? (All KC registered puppies are entitled to 6wls free insurance cover for any illness during the first six weeks in your care – a scheme subscribed to by most responsible breeders)
  12. What guarantees do you provide? Can I view the Terms of sale or contract? (Concerned and responsible breeders offer contracts that protect not only the buyer and seller, but also the best interests of the puppy.)


Purchasing Your New Puppy



Huskies (30)CHOOSE A REPUTABLE BREEDER. Research well! A good breeder will prioritise the puppy’s welfare far above the financial gain and accordingly will want to interview you to ensure that their puppy will be going to a good home. They may wish to visit your home. They will expect you to sign some kind of contract. They will want the puppy returned to them if for any reason you are unable to care for it. They will be happy to answer your questions, offer advice on raising your puppy and serve as a great support system.

LOCAL AREA: There are usually plenty of litters being advertised in local newsagents and papers. These may prove to be exactly what you are looking for if you know what breed you want, but always insist on seeing the puppies with their mother or look elsewhere if this is refused.

AVOID BUYING FROM A PET SHOP ETC, through a newspaper advertisement or other retail outlet, offering a wide range of breeds. It is likely they have come from puppy farms where they will have been badly bred in poor conditions as the top priority is profit, not the puppy’s welfare

NEVER AGREE TO MEET A BREEDER HALF WAY, including at dog shows or service stations: this is a favourite trick of puppy farms. Always visit the breeder’s home. Do not agree to have the puppy delivered because you will not know the temperament of its mother or littermates nor will you know what conditions it was raised in or its general state of health. . If using the internet for initial research that is fine but exercise caution and use common sense and be sure to visit the puppy personally before deciding to purchase.

small_German-Shepherd-Puppies-8603ADOPTING FROM A SHELTER OR RESCUE: While most dogs in shelters are mixed breeds, most have a percentage of pure breeds. However they may prove to be very difficult to rehome “status” breeds and are unlikely to be suitable as a family pet. There are also specific breed rescue groups across the country. Adoption fees are generally quite reasonable. As rescue dogs are frequently mature adults from less than stable backgrounds a first time purchaser would be better off buying a puppy that can be trained and reared to fit in with your lifestyle in a manner that will avoid problems as it matures.

IF CHOOSING A PARTICULAR BREED: Contact either your local rescue centre or the breed club secretary of the breed you have chosen.

THE KENNEL CLUB WEBSITE HAS A LIST OF BREEDERS IN YOUR LOCAL AREA who have signed up to the Kennel Club Accredited Breeders Scheme. Also run in association with this scheme is the Puppy Index, run by the Pet Care Trust with about 5,000 breeders signed up to it. Database files containing photos and breed summaries are often available in pet stores whose knowledgeable staff may also be able to recommend the nearest breeders of suitable dogs.

SUCCESS For Sochi Dogs And Cats!–Together We CAN Make A Difference!!


Together_Making a Difference

Success For Sochi Dogs and Cats!

Together We CAN Make A Difference!!

Results For the Petition You Signed, 2000 dogs and cats’ll be killed for the Olympic Games (Sochi 2014)! Please help to stop this.

On Feb  6, 2014, you signed the petition, 2000 dogs and cats’ll be killed for the Olympic Games (Sochi 2014)! Please help to stop this.. The petition author, Ekaterina Bourgois, has now closed the petition and sent this message to all its signers:

The Petitions Site                                                                                                                                                22 Feb (3 days ago)

A success!

Dear Animal lovers, Animal Activists and All Animal Welfare Organizations,
I would like to thank you all for the caring.
Your appeal reviewed by the experts state administration of
Veterinary Krasnodar region on behalf of the Presidential Administration
of The Russian Federation.
At this moment, the city of Sochi formed a shelter for homeless animals.
More information about the details see at :

Dear Presidential Administration of The Russian Federation, we are thankful for your support.
Best regards,
Ekaterina Bourgois
On behalf of Care2, thank you for making a difference. The Petition Site hosts thousands of petitions just like this one. Please continue taking action by going to:
The & Team

People like us CAN make a difference if we stand together with one voice and one heart! We appealed to hearts and minds and Russia responded. We are indeed thankful to the Presidential Administration of The Russian Federation! A fitting tail end to the fantastic 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics.

From MoonTechK9 Dog Training – RESPECT  to the Presidential Administration of The Russian Federation.

What A Dog Wants


Think BEFORE You Buy Me!!!


A dog is big commitment and comes with serious responsibilities…Take the time to research their needs and to give serious and honest consideration to whether or not you are willing and able to meet their needs and to give them the life they deserve. You owe it to yourself and your potential new dog. Think before you leap!!


‘Klondlike’ The Frozen Puppy!


‘Klondike’ Born From A Frozen Embryo


(Image: Cornell University Photography) (Klondlike)

Beagle X Labrador Retriever puppy, “Klondike” now 9 months old is one of the first pups in the world to be born from a frozen embryo. He is a happy, healthy and very typical puppy, well developed and full of playful energy and the curiosity regarding just about everything, as puppies inclined to be!

Whilst his parents breeds are not endangered ones it is hoped that the technique used to produce Klondlike will also, in the future be used on and to preserve endangered and rare canine species, for example, the red wolf.

The technique in question is known as cryopreservation, a process that involves collecting and freezing, in this case scenario, fertilised eggs. Fertilisation occurs when as with Klondlike’s surrogate mum – a beagle, the female dog is able to become pregnant, and the embryo transferred to her. This is known as artificial insemination. Timing is vital as she will only “come on heat” once or twice yearly, so the window of time in which canine pregnancy can occur is very limited.

““Reproduction in dogs is remarkably different than in other mammals. We’re working to understand these differences so we can tackle issues ranging from developing contraceptives to preserving the genetic diversity of endangered animals through assisted reproduction.”   Alex Travis, who worked on the project and is director of Cornell’s campus-wide Centre for Wildlife Conservation.


Cornell University Research Report